Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990/1R-001, blue dial, rose gold, year 2022, complete set

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph with reference 5990/1R-001 is one of the most complicated and highly sought-after contemporary models in the Nautilus collection. Crafted entirely from 18-karat rose gold, with a blue dial featuring a satin-finished sunburst pattern and horizontal relief, it combines a flyback chronograph with a second time zone function Travel Time and a date indication via hand linked to the local time.

The correct configuration for this timepiece is the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001. The rose gold version was introduced to the collection in 2021 as the first significant change in the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph line since its debut in 2014. The offered example dates from 2022 and comes in a complete set.

Reference 5990 is the most practically complicated sporty Nautilus in the brand's regular lineup. It combines two complications that truly matter in daily use: a chronograph and a dual time zone mechanism. In the 5990/1R-001 version, everything is housed in a case and bracelet made of rose gold, making this model one of the few gold, complicated Nautiluses with a distinctly sporty character.

The full and precise identification of the watch reads:

Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990/1R-001, case and bracelet in 18-karat rose gold, blue sunburst dial with horizontal relief, caliber CH 28-520 C FUS, year 2022, complete set.

Under the case works the Patek Philippe caliber CH 28-520 C FUS, a mechanical chronograph with automatic winding, developed and manufactured by the manufacture. The movement uses a column wheel, vertical disc clutch, Gyromax balance, Spiromax hairspring, and a central rotor made of 21-karat gold. The power reserve is approximately 45 to 55 hours. The movement is marked with the quality sign Patek Philippe Seal.

The tradition of M&M GOLD in the luxury goods industry dates back to 1985. M&M GOLD experts help find the precisely specified Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001 example, verify its authenticity, configuration, technical condition, mechanism, set completeness, and the compliance of all key elements with the correct reference.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001, key parameters

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001 features a case made of 18-karat rose gold with a diameter of 40.5 mm measured between 10 and 4 o'clock and a thickness of 12.53 mm, a rounded octagonal bezel inspired by a ship's porthole, a blue sunburst dial with horizontal relief, applied baton indices in rose gold coated with white luminescent material, a local time hand in rose gold with luminescent coating, and a skeletonized home time hand, day/night indications for local and home time in windows, date indicated by hand linked to local time, flyback chronograph with central seconds hand and a 60-minute counter, automatic movement CH 28-520 C FUS with a diameter of 31 mm and thickness of 6.95 mm, 370 components, 34 jewels, frequency of 28,800 half-vibrations per hour (4 Hz), power reserve of 45–55 hours, time zone correctors integrated into the case at 9 o'clock, screw-down crown, sapphire caseback, water resistance up to 30 meters, and a rose gold bracelet with a folding clasp.

Frequently Asked Questions about Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001

What is the reference number of the gold Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph with a blue dial?

5990/1R-001. The designation 1R indicates construction in rose gold along with a gold bracelet, while the suffix 001 identifies the specific dial configuration.

What does the R in reference 5990/1R stand for?

The letter R refers to the French term "or rose", meaning rose gold. In Patek Philippe nomenclature, the letter A stands for steel, G for white gold, J for yellow gold, P for platinum, while the digit 1 before the letter indicates construction with a metal bracelet.

When did Patek Philippe present the 5990/1R-001?

The rose gold version was introduced in 2021. It was the first significant change in the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph line since the model's premiere in 2014.

When did the entire reference 5990 debut?

The 5990 model was presented in 2014, initially exclusively in steel, with a gradient dial transitioning from blue to black as reference 5990/1A-001.

Is the 5990/1R-001 still in the Patek Philippe lineup?

Yes. The gold 5990/1R-001 remains in the brand's current catalog. However, it is not an easily accessible model in official distribution.

How does the 5990/1R-001 differ from the steel 5990/1A-011?

The primary difference is the material. The 5990/1R-001 is made entirely of 18-karat rose gold, whereas the 5990/1A-011 is the steel version. They also differ in dials, as the gold version features a blue sunburst dial, while the steel version has a gradient dial transitioning from blue to black. The declared water resistance also differs.

Is the 5990/1R-001 rarer than the steel version?

Even within the Nautilus collection, reference 5990 belongs to models with exceptionally limited availability, and the version made of full rose gold is significantly less common than its steel counterparts.

What is the diameter of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001?

40.5 mm, with Patek Philippe specifying the measurement taken between 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock, i.e., across the characteristic octagonal case.

What is the case thickness?

12.53 mm. The model is noticeably thicker than simpler Nautiluses, which results directly from combining a chronograph and a dual time zone mechanism in one movement.

Is the 5990/1R-001 a large watch?

It should not be judged solely by numbers. The characteristic, flat octagonal Nautilus case and integrated bracelet sit on the wrist differently than a classic round case of similar diameter. The actual fit is best evaluated on a specific wrist.

What is the case made of?

It is made of 18-karat rose gold. The bracelet is crafted from the same metal.

What color is the dial?

Blue, finished in sunburst, with the characteristic horizontal relief known from the Nautilus collection.

What is a sunburst dial?

This is a finish where the dial surface is crafted so that light radiates outward from its center. Combined with the warm hue of rose gold, this effect causes the dial to change color intensity depending on the angle of light incidence.

Why does the Nautilus dial have horizontal stripes?

The horizontal relief of the dial is one of the fundamental elements of the collection's design language, present since the first Nautilus from 1976. It serves as a recognizable hallmark of the model regardless of generation and case material.

Are the indices coated with luminescent material?

Yes. The applied baton-type indices made of rose gold are coated with white luminescent material. The local time hand also features luminescence.

How do the two hour hands differ?

The solid hand indicates local time, while the skeletonized hand shows home time. When staying in the same time zone, they overlap.

How does the Travel Time function work?

The mechanism allows independently adjusting the local time hand in full hours in both directions, without stopping the watch or affecting minutes and seconds. The home time remains unchanged.

Where are the time zone correctors located?

They are integrated into the case at 9 o'clock. Their design fits the line of the case, ensuring they do not disrupt the watch's silhouette.

Does the watch have day and night indicators?

Yes. The watch features separate windowed day/night indicators for local time and home time. This solution allows unambiguous reading of whether it is daytime or nighttime in a given zone.

Does the 5990/1R-001 have a date display?

Yes. The date is indicated by a hand on the subdial and is linked to local time. This means that crossing midnight in the time zone adjustment causes the date to change accordingly.

Why is the date linked to local time?

From a traveler's perspective, it is most practical to have the date corresponding to the current location. Patek Philippe solved this by having the date follow local time, not home time.

What is a flyback chronograph?

It is a chronograph that allows instant restart of measurement with a single button press, without the need to perform the sequence of stop, reset, and start. This function is particularly useful for a series of consecutive measurements.

What is the maximum measurement time of the chronograph?

The chronograph features a 60-minute counter and a central seconds hand.

Where is the chronograph counter located?

The chronograph minute counter is placed at the bottom of the dial, while the date subdial is located at the top. This arrangement creates a characteristic, symmetrical dial composition.

Does the chronograph have a column wheel?

Yes. The CH 28-520 C FUS caliber uses control via a column wheel, considered the traditional and most technically demanding solution in chronograph construction.

Does the movement have a vertical clutch?

Yes. Patek Philippe implemented a vertical disc clutch. This allows for a smooth start of the central chronograph hand without the characteristic jump found in some designs with horizontal clutches, and also enables long-term operation of the chronograph.

What movement powers the 5990/1R-001?

Automatic Patek Philippe caliber CH 28-520 C FUS.

What does the designation CH 28-520 C FUS mean?

The abbreviation refers to the movement's construction. CH indicates a chronograph, the numbers refer to the diameter and movement family, the letter C stands for column wheel, and FUS indicates the second time zone display.

How many components make up the movement?

It consists of 370 parts and 34 jewels. The movement diameter is 31 mm, and its thickness is 6.95 mm.

What is the power reserve?

From approximately 45 to 55 hours, depending on the winding state and whether the chronograph is running.

What is a Gyromax balance?

It is a Patek Philippe patented balance with absolute regulation, where timing adjustment is achieved by rotating small weights placed on the circumference of the balance wheel, without the need for a classic regulator.

What is a Spiromax hairspring?

It is a hairspring made from Silinvar, a material developed by Patek Philippe. Its geometry is designed to improve isochronism and the stability of the oscillator's operation.

What is the Patek Philippe Seal?

It is the manufacture's own quality sign introduced in 2009, covering not just the movement but the complete watch. The standard concerns, among other things, finishing, timekeeping accuracy of the finished watch, and servicing rules.

What is the water resistance of the 5990/1R-001?

Up to 30 meters. This is a lower value than in steel Nautiluses without case correctors and results directly from the case construction equipped with integrated chronograph pushers and time zone correctors.

Can you swim in this watch?

The declared water resistance of 30 meters indicates resistance to water contact during typical use, but it is not a watch designed for swimming or diving. For any used example, it is advisable to know its current sealing status before water contact.

Is the crown screw-down?

Yes. The watch features a screw-down crown.

Is the movement visible?

Yes. The watch has a sapphire caseback, through which the CH 28-520 C FUS caliber along with the central 21-karat gold rotor is visible.

What bracelet does the 5990/1R-001 have?

An integrated bracelet made of 18-karat rose gold, finished with a folding clasp made of the same metal.

Is the bracelet integrated with the case?

Yes. The integrated bracelet is one of the foundations of the Nautilus design. The bracelet is not attached with classic spring bars and forms a direct continuation of the case line.

How are the watch surfaces finished?

The case, bezel, pushers, and bracelet combine polished and satin-finished surfaces. The contrast of these finishes is one of the most important visual elements of the entire collection.

Where did the Nautilus octagonal bezel come from?

The rounded octagonal bezel and side case lugs refer to the construction of a transatlantic passenger ship's porthole. It is this motif that defined the model's silhouette.

Where does the name Nautilus come from?

The name refers to the submarine of Captain Nemo from Jules Verne's novel "Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea".

Who designed the Nautilus?

Gérald Genta, the same designer who previously created the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The Nautilus debuted in 1976 as reference 3700/1A.

Is the gold Nautilus more ostentatious than the steel one?

Rose gold is inherently more expressive than steel, but the warm hue of the metal combined with the deep blue dial creates a harmonious combination, where the sporty architecture of the case balances the nobility of the material.

Does the 5990/1R-001 go with a suit?

Yes. Despite its sporty origins, the Nautilus has functioned for decades as a versatile watch. The rose gold version with a blue dial works well with both formal and casual attire.

What clothing colors does it match?

The combination of rose gold and a blue dial pairs well with navy, gray, white, beige, and brown. The warm metal looks particularly striking with earth tones and classic navy wardrobes.

Is this a daily wear watch?

The construction allows for regular wear, but it is worth remembering that this is a gold watch, with a declared water resistance of 30 meters and a double complication. It therefore requires more attention than a steel sports watch.

Is the 5990/1R-001 a limited edition?

No. The reference is not an officially numbered limited edition, although its availability in official distribution remains very limited.

Why is it so hard to obtain?

Demand for complicated Nautilus models significantly exceeds the number of examples arriving at authorized boutiques. Limited allocation is not, however, synonymous with a formal limited edition.

Is this a collector's model?

Yes, it can be very interesting from a collector's perspective. It is the only version of the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph made entirely of rose gold in the regular lineup, combining two complications in the most recognizable sporty case of Patek Philippe.

Is the watch an investment?

One should not treat any watch as a guaranteed instrument for value appreciation. Future value is influenced by demand, supply, manufacturer decisions, economic situation, set completeness, and the condition of the specific example.

What does "complete set" mean in the description of this example?

A complete set means the watch along with the original box and manufacturer documentation. With Patek Philippe, set completeness is crucial for identification and future value of the example.

Why does the production year matter?

The year helps place the example in the history of the reference, facilitates verification of set compliance with documentation, and is often important for collectors seeking early examples of a given version.

Is the year 2022 an early example of the 5990/1R-001?

The rose gold version was introduced in 2021, so an example from 2022 comes from the initial production period of this configuration.

History of the Patek Philippe Nautilus collection

The history of the Nautilus began in 1976 with the premiere of reference 3700/1A. The watch was designed by Gérald Genta, who had created the Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet four years earlier.

Patek Philippe's decision was then radical. The manufacture, associated almost exclusively with classic watches made of precious metals, introduced a steel sports watch to its lineup with a price comparable to gold models.

The project was based on several elements that still define the collection today. These include the rounded octagonal bezel, side case lugs resembling porthole hinges, horizontal dial relief, and the integrated bracelet forming a direct continuation of the case line.

The first Nautilus earned the nickname "Jumbo" due to its very large case for those times. At the same time, the watch was exceptionally flat, which was one of its most prized features.

The model name referred to the submarine from Jules Verne's novel, and the inspiration for the case shape was a transatlantic passenger ship's porthole.

Nautilus and complications

For the first decades, the Nautilus remained primarily a simple watch, indicating hours, minutes, and date.

The situation changed in 2006, when on the occasion of the thirtieth anniversary of the collection, Patek Philippe presented a new generation of the model, along with the first Nautilus chronograph, reference 5980.

This was a significant event because it proved that the sporty Nautilus case could accommodate a serious complication without losing its characteristic proportions.

The next step was combining the chronograph with a second time zone mechanism.

Travel Time and the tradition of the second time zone

The Patek Philippe Travel Time mechanism is based on a solution allowing independent adjustment of the local time hand in full hours in both directions, while maintaining the continuity of the watch's operation.

This function was previously used in the Aquanaut collection, where in 2011 reference 5164 with dual time display debuted.

The success of this solution led the manufacture to decide to move it to the Nautilus collection and combine it with a chronograph.

Premiere of reference 5990 in 2014

In 2014, Patek Philippe presented the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990/1A-001.

The watch replaced the steel chronograph 5980/1A in the lineup and became the most complicated sporty Nautilus available in the regular lineup with a bracelet.

The first version was made of steel and equipped with a gradient dial transitioning from gray to black.

The new caliber CH 28-520 C FUS was developed specifically for this reference. It combined a flyback chronograph controlled by a column wheel and operating with a vertical clutch with a dual time zone mechanism and date indicated by a hand linked to local time.

For seven subsequent years, the steel version remained the only variant of the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph.

Premiere of 5990/1R-001 in 2021

In 2021, Patek Philippe introduced to the collection a version made entirely of 18-karat rose gold.

It was the first significant change in the 5990 line since its debut.

The new reference received a blue sunburst dial with horizontal relief, applied indices in rose gold, and hands color-matched to the case.

The combination of warm metal with a deep blue dial created a completely different character than in the steel versions. The watch retained its sporty architecture but gained a distinctly more luxurious expression.

Changes in the 5990 line after 2021

In 2022, Patek Philippe withdrew the steel reference 5990/1A-001 with the gradient black dial from the lineup.

A few months later, reference 5990/1A-011 appeared in the catalog, retaining the steel construction, the same proportions, and the same mechanism, but equipped with a gradient dial transitioning from blue to black.

From that moment on, the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph line has functioned in two variants: steel 5990/1A-011 and gold 5990/1R-001.

Blue sunburst dial

The dial is one of the most important elements of the character of the 5990/1R-001.

The surface is crafted in sunburst technique, so that light radiates outward from the center of the dial.

Over this finish is applied the horizontal relief, characteristic of the entire Nautilus collection.

The result is a dial that, depending on lighting, can appear almost navy blue or brighten to an intense, vibrant blue.

Applied indices in rose gold, coated with white luminescent material, create a clear contrast and introduce a color echo of the case onto the dial.

Dial layout

The composition of the 5990 dial is exceptionally symmetrical.

In the upper part is the subdial for the date indicated by a hand.

In the lower part is the chronograph minute counter.

On the sides of the dial are windowed day/night indicators for local time and home time.

The central hand measures chronograph seconds and remains stationary until the measurement is started.

The two hour hands operate on a common axis. The solid one indicates local time, the skeletonized one home time.

Flyback chronograph

The flyback chronograph allows starting a new measurement immediately without performing the full stop, reset, start sequence.

In practice, this means that a single button press resets the indications and immediately starts the next measurement.

The function originates from aviation applications, where the speed of starting subsequent navigation segments was crucial.

In daily use, it is a convenient solution wherever consecutive intervals are measured.

Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS

The caliber CH 28-520 C FUS is the heart of reference 5990.

The movement was developed and manufactured by Patek Philippe as an automatic chronograph integrated with a dual time zone mechanism.

The construction combines a traditional solution in the form of a column wheel with a vertical disc clutch, which ensures a smooth start of the central hand and allows for long-term operation of the chronograph.

The movement consists of 370 components and 34 jewels, has a 31 mm diameter, and 6.95 mm thickness.

Winding is realized by a central rotor made of 21-karat gold.

The oscillator uses a Gyromax balance and a Spiromax hairspring and operates at a frequency of 28,800 half-vibrations per hour (4 Hz).

The power reserve is from approximately 45 to 55 hours.

The movement is visible through the sapphire caseback.

Patek Philippe Seal

The watch is covered by the manufacture's own quality sign.

The Patek Philippe Seal was introduced in 2009 and replaced earlier external quality markings used by the brand.

The standard is broader than classic movement certification because it covers the complete watch, its finishing, timekeeping accuracy after cased, and the manufacturer's servicing commitments.

40.5 mm case in rose gold

The case is made of 18-karat rose gold.

Patek Philippe specifies its diameter as 40.5 mm measured between 10 and 4 o'clock, corresponding to the characteristic geometry of the octagonal bezel.

The thickness is 12.53 mm and results directly from the number of complications contained in the movement.

The surfaces of the case, bezel, pushers, and bracelet combine polished and satin-finished finishes.

At 9 o'clock on the case, time zone correctors are integrated, which do not disrupt the side line of the watch.

The case construction refers to the ship's porthole, which is one of the fundamental design motifs of the entire collection.

Rose gold bracelet

The integrated bracelet is made of the same 18-karat rose gold as the case.

Its links combine polished and satin-finished surfaces, continuing the case's finish.

The bracelet tapers towards the clasp, which improves wearing comfort despite the significant mass of gold.

The clasp has a folding construction and is also made of rose gold.

Why the 5990/1R-001 is unique in the Nautilus collection

For most of its history, the Nautilus remained a simple watch.

Reference 5990 belongs to a narrow group of models where the sporty case houses two useful complications.

The construction in full rose gold further narrows this group.

We receive a watch that simultaneously belongs to the most recognizable sporty designs in the history of watchmaking and to the most complicated regularly produced models of this collection.

Nautilus 5990/1R-001 as a travel watch

The set of functions of this reference was chosen with a specific application in mind.

The second time zone allows maintaining contact with home time.

Day and night indicators eliminate the most common problem when reading the second time zone, i.e., uncertainty about the time of day.

Date linked to local time corresponds to the actual date at the place of stay.

Flyback chronograph completes the set with a time measurement function.

It is hard to find a more practical set of complications in a sports watch.

How to verify the authenticity of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001?

Authentication should not be reduced to a single detail.

Professional control should include reference compliance, case construction and finishing, geometry of the octagonal bezel, quality of the relief and dial finish, applied indices, hands, time zone correctors, crown, chronograph pushers, bracelet, clasp, and the CH 28-520 C FUS movement visible through the sapphire caseback.

Special attention should be paid to the movement finishing, because the decoration standard used by Patek Philippe is one of the most characteristic identifying elements of the brand.

Verification also covers documentation and number compliance with the set.

Modern copies of popular references can look convincing superficially, so a single detail visible in a photo should not be the basis for confirming the watch's authenticity.

How to technically evaluate a used 5990/1R-001?

It is worth paying attention to the operation of the crown and winding, the functioning of the time zone correctors, the correct jumping of the local time hand in both directions, the date change when crossing midnight, the operation of day and night indicators, the start, stop, and reset of the chronograph, the flyback function, the precision of the hands' return to the zero position, the accuracy of the basic time indication, and the actual power reserve.

Due to the case and bracelet material, it is necessary to carefully assess the condition of the gold surfaces, edge sharpness, condition of polished and satin finishes, and play in the bracelet.

The crystal, caseback, and current water resistance of the watch also need to be checked.

Sourcing Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001 through M&M GOLD

M&M GOLD can source a precisely specified Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001 according to individual client requirements.

When placing an order, one can specify primarily the exact configuration of the 5990/1R-001 with a blue sunburst dial, preferred year, required set completeness, required technical condition, and other parameters regarding the specific example.

Individual sourcing begins after making a full prepayment. This allows reserving the appropriate watch with a trusted partner and starting the acquisition process.

The standard realization time averages from 7 to 14 business days. If the client specifies a very rare year or exceptionally detailed requirements for a specific example, the process may take longer.

Each watch acquired through individual sourcing comes from a verified source, undergoes inspection before release, and has a minimum one-year warranty on the movement.

Why buy the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001 at M&M GOLD?

When purchasing a complicated Nautilus, significance lies not only in choosing the correct reference number.

Reference 5990 appears in several material and dial configurations, so the first step is precise identification of the variant.

In the case of the gold version, the sought configuration is the 5990/1R-001 with a blue sunburst dial.

M&M GOLD experts can verify the watch's authenticity, configuration compliance, CH 28-520 C FUS caliber, correct operation of the flyback chronograph and Travel Time mechanism, technical condition of the case, dial, crystal, crown, correctors, bracelet, and clasp, as well as set completeness and documentation compliance.

The tradition of M&M GOLD in the luxury goods industry dates back to 1985. We combine experience in luxury watches, gold, diamonds, and jewelry with individual sourcing of specific references.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001 from M&M GOLD experts

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990/1R-001 is one of the most interesting complicated sporty models in the contemporary lineup of the manufacture.

The version in 18-karat rose gold was introduced in 2021 as the first significant change in the 5990 line since its debut in 2014. The combination of warm metal with a blue sunburst dial with horizontal relief gave the watch a character that is simultaneously sporty and distinctly luxurious.

Technically, the heart of the model remains the CH 28-520 C FUS caliber. The automatic flyback chronograph was entirely developed by Patek Philippe and utilizes a column wheel, vertical disc clutch, Gyromax balance, Spiromax hairspring, and a central 21-karat gold rotor. It offers from approximately 45 to 55 hours of power reserve and is covered by the Patek Philippe Seal.

The case has a 40.5 mm diameter measured between 10 and 4 o'clock and a thickness of 12.53 mm. The watch features a screw-down crown, sapphire caseback, water resistance up to 30 meters, integrated time zone correctors at 9 o'clock, and an integrated rose gold bracelet with a folding clasp.

The set of functions includes a flyback chronograph with a 60-minute counter, indication of local and home time on two hour hands, separate day and night indicators for both zones, and a date indicated by a hand linked to local time.

The offered example dates from 2022, i.e., from the initial production period of this configuration, and comes in a complete set.

For a client seeking a complicated Nautilus in full rose gold, with one of the most characteristic color combinations of the contemporary collection, reference 5990/1R-001 remains an exceptionally interesting choice.

Through M&M GOLD, one can order a specifically selected Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001, specifying the preferred year, condition, set completeness, and additional requirements for the specific example.

M&M GOLD combines experience in the luxury watch market with professional authenticity assessment and individual sourcing. This ensures the client receives a precisely specified and verified reference corresponding to their expectations.